Results for "Gadget"
How to Extend Your iPad’s Battery Life When You’re Not Using it
A while ago we had the realization that we don’t use our tablets as much as we used to; that led us to ask how we could extend battery life on our Android tablets when we weren’t using them. Today, we pose that same question to our iPads.
Most of us aren’t taking our iPads with us everywhere, they usually stay home when we go to work or out to play.In reality, iPads tend to get really good battery life with little adjustment, but that’s not to say it couldn’t be better. There are things you can do to wring more time from a single charge, particularly if you use tablets in a way that we feel is typical: for short periods, in evening, perhaps sitting on the couch or lying in bed.
On that assumption then, we can disable some of our iPad’s functionality because we’re not using it in such a way that that functionality really matters, i.e., almost exclusively for consumption of social media, playing games, streaming video, and other non-productive activities.

The Biggest Primary Battery Wasters: Background Refreshing and Notifications

The first thing you want to disable is background app refreshing. While you need apps to make your iPad fun, those apps don’t need to spend the day polling for updates and wasting your battery.
Similarly, if your iPad is primarily for consuming media and surfing the Internet, you don’t need a lot of notifications (if any).
First, open the “Settings” and the “General” category, then tap the “Background App Refresh” button.
There’s a long of all your installed apps, next to which you can disable each one’s background refresh, if you want. It’s easier however, to just turn off “Background App Refresh” at the top.
Next, in the Settings, tap “Notifications”; you can’t turn notifications off in one fell swoop like background app refresh.
Instead, you have to tap on each application and then tap off “Allow Notifications.” You can do this for all, most, or just a few.
If you want to dive deeper into all things iOS notifications, then you can also adjust settings for sounds, badge icons, and so forth. For our purposes here, however, turning them and background app refreshing off should have a long-term positive effect on battery life.

Mail, Contacts, Calendars

Your iPad is designed to work within Apple’s so-called walled garden, meaning that when you connect it to your Apple account, changes you make to your contacts, events you add to your calendar, and any email you receive is pushed to your device. This assures that your iPad is up-to-date and consistent with the rest of your Apple devices.
That said, if you’re not using your iPad for productive activities such as mail, contacts, and calendars, then turning off push makes sense.
To turn off push, tap “Mail, Contacts, Calendars” in the Settings, then “Fetch New Data.”
You have the option to adjust your accounts individually, but we’re just going to turn off “Push” and refresh manually, if needed.
Remember, disabling this setting means that if you want to see your latest email, or update your calendars and contacts, then you will need to refresh manually.

You Don’t Need Bluetooth (Except When You Do)

Bluetooth is another battery waster. Unlike WiFi, which you need for just about everything, Bluetooth is only necessary when you’re sending files or using accessories like speakers and headphones.
As such, you can disable Bluetooth while you’re in the settings if you like.
It’s easier however, to simply use the Control Center to quickly enable/disable Bluetooth as necessary.

While you’re using the Control Center, you could always place your iPad into Airplane Mode. You can also disable WiFi too.
Note, if your iPad has mobile data, that can also be turned off to add more life to your battery. You’ll have to open the settings to do this, however, it’s not accessible in the Control Center.
That said, what we’re really going for is to save the battery while leaving enough functionality intact so we don’t have to turn a bunch of stuff on when we sit down to use the device. Bluetooth is a no-brainer, everything else is up to you.

Location, Location, Location

Do you need to use your iPad’s location services? Possibly, but more than likely only for specific apps. From the Settings, tap the “Privacy” button and then open “Location Services.”
You can turn location services off completely, or you can do so on a per app basis.
If you go the individual app route, you will need to tap each one and select “Never” from the choices.
Again, how much you hobble this service is up to you. Turning it all off is far easier, but it might work better for you to disable apps that use the location service all the time versus when you’re actually using it.

A Few Other Things

In addition to these essential battery wasters, you can also apply a few other changes that will save on overall battery life.

Spotlight

Do you even use Spotlight on your iPad? Maybe, but if you don’t then you don’t need it, so you can safely turn it off.
Open the Settings, tap “General” and then “Spotlight Search.”
Now you see a list of all the categories Spotlight catalogs. Unchecking all these means Spotlight is effectively off since it doesn’t have anything to do.
Spotlight is probably a more oft-used feature on OS X than iOS. Yes, some people probably can’t do without it, but they’re likely using their iPads for more productive work that requires finding contacts, events, and other information as efficiently as possible.

Screen Brightness

Okay, this one is always on every battery-saver’s list and technically, if you’re not using your iPad, your screen isn’t on. But when you are using your iPad, even for small periods of time, the screen is by far the number one energy-intensive component.
To that end, remember you can turn the brightness down a bit to add a few minutes to your battery’s life. From the settings, tap “Display & Brightness” and use the slider; turn off “Auto-Brightness” if you prefer to make your own brightness adjustments.
The easier way to make screen brightness adjustments is to open the Control Center and use the brightness slider.
Again, while this doesn’t count toward saving your iPad’s battery when you’re not using it, it sure helps when you are.

Turn it Off, Turn it All Off

Finally, if you’re a very occasional tablet user, say, for example, you only use your iPad during the weekends or every now and then, you might consider just turning it off whenever you’re finished with it. While we don’t recommend this if you use your iPad daily (or nightly), it’s still a valid option for longterm battery savings if your use is more sporadic.
From here, you should start to experience better battery life and go for longer periods between charges. While battery life on iOS devices is generally good to excellent in their own right, and often much better than their Android counterparts, it can still be improved. Hopefully these tips will help with that.
If from here you have any comments, such as other battery-saving tips, or you have a burning question you would like to ask, please leave your feedback in our discussion forum.

Unknown Wednesday, December 23, 2015
HTG Reviews the D-Link AC3200 Ultra Wi-Fi Router: A Speedy Spaceship for Your Wi-Fi Needs
The premium router market is increasingly saturated with high-priced and powerful routers. Even in such a market the D-Link AC3200 Ultra Wi-Fi Router stands out both in size and styling as well as performance. Read on as we take a closer look at this flame red and feature packed model.

What Is The D-Link AC3200 Ultra Wi-Fi Router?

The D-Link AC3200 Ultra Wi-Fi Router (or DIR-890L) ($299) is D-Link’s current flagship router and a beast both in physical size and power. The router is absolutely massive by any measure and is, to date, the largest router we’ve owned or reviewed with a footprint approximately 16x10x5 and an insect-like protrusion of six stocky non-detachable antennas. The styling of the unit is very distinct with a bright red gloss paint job and a pronounced peaked case. Although we couldn’t quite agree on the metaphor around the office, everyone had an opinion about it with some people calling it the spaceship router, while others referred to it as a drone, alien, or spider.
Inside that flashy case you’ll find a Broadcom-dual-core 1GHz processor and a tri-band arrangement that splits your Wi-Fi networking load across three radios: one 2.4GHz band for all your 802.11n/g/b clients and two 5GHz bands for all your 802.11ac/n/a clients.
The router has a total potential bandwidth of 3,200Mpbs (thus the AC3200 designation) but it’s important to understand what that means. No single client or even entire band will ever have access to that amount of transfer speed. The number is derived from the cumulative bandwidth potential if the router is maxed with multiple clients across all three bands. The top theoretical speed is still limited to the total potential output over one of the 5GHz bands, 1,300Mpbs.
Just because you can’t tap into the total power of the router with a single client, however, doesn’t mean that the naming scheme is a marketing gimmick or a waste of your money. The whole point of increasingly sophisticated routers with multiple bands is to provide adequate available bandwidth for modern homes packed with Wi-Fi hungry devices such that everyone’s laptops, tablets, game systems, streaming sticks, and more all have enough.
To that end we’ll spoil the review by giving you a strong sense of our conclusion right at the beginning: The D-Link DIR-890L is a very expensive router with a focus on creating a large and powerful umbrella of Wi-Fi coverage for homes with lots of devices and heavy users. This is not, nor would even the most motivated D-Link sales rep suggest such, a router for Grandma and her one iPad.

Setting It Up

Although setup is just a very tiny portion of the total lifetime interaction you’ll have with your router, it’s both an important step and a strong indicator of how your future experience with the router will go. Two of the things we noted in our previous review of the D-Link DIR-880L was that D-Link thoughtfully included mounting hardware and that the setup wizard and GUI was very user friendly.
First, we’re going to make note of it again: D-Link is the only router company we’ve ever reviewed a unit for that includes mounting hardware. We know, we know, drywall mounting hardware costs like a buck or two and that it doesn’t really matter when purchasing a very expensive router. Regardless, we appreciate that tiny attention to detail.
Second, the setup wizard and the general user interface remains the easiest to use and most user friendly we’ve tested. There has been a general push across the entire market for more user friendly router interfaces and collectively we’ve seen the user interface experience improve across all the routers we’ve tested. These days ASUS, Netgear, and friends all have radically improved their GUI design game. None the less the D-Link router interface is, hands down, the most intuitive and user friendly. While the simplistic interface might be a turn off to power users that are used to the everything-and-the-kitchen-sink approach you get with aftermarket firmware like DD-WRT it’s nice to have a user interface you don’t need years of networking experience to understand.
You plug it in, connect and run through the wizard, and other than diving deeper into the settings (like configuring a guest network) and you’re done. The screenshot of the main panel above shows you, in very clear terms, that you’re connected to the Internet, that there are clients connected to your router, and whether or not you have a USB storage device attached. Intuitively, clicking on any of the elements in the icon-based GUI either gives you additional information about that item or, in the case of error messages, helps you troubleshoot the problem.
Another user-friendly element of the D-Link GUI is that nearly every menu is divided into a simple and advanced section. Thus when you first go to do something in a given category the GUI gives you the most common task related to that entry and a clean interface (like changing your Wi-Fi password) and then, if you need more advanced adjustments, you can click the advanced link and the menu will expand to reveal additional settings. Again, power users might not be a huge fan of this but for the vast majority of people it’s a perfect setup. It gives you what you most likely need right up front and then gives you more if you need it.

Test Driving the Specialty Features

The biggest selling point for the DIR-890L is, by far, just the sheer extra power you get with upgrading to a flagship mode. In addition to that power there are also a handful of auxiliary functions and features worth noting.

Smart Connect

We’re pretty big fans of the Smart Connect unction (exclusive to the DIR-880L and DIR-890L). The premise is simple: you assign a single SSID and password to all three bands (the one 2.4Ghz and two 5GHz bands) and the router will actively manage your connections and shuttle devices between the bands to maximize performance.
Let us tell you, that’s the kind of claim we’ve heard made in a million different ways over the years (and we even experimented years ago with using DD-WRT to attempt the same feat). It’s easy to talk about, it’s easy to claim you’ve got a system that works like that, but in practice we’ve always been disappointed with the whole promise of all-in-one SSIDs where the company claims their router will actively manage which device uses what. Historically we always have at least a few devices on our network that freak out and the system falls apart when they can’t maintain a connection to the router.
With the DIR-890L we had a wonderfully smooth experience with the “Smart Connect” feature. The entire network is using one SSID, all the devices are happily connected, and as bandwidth demand goes up devices are seamlessly moved between the radios. The best thing we can say about it is that we don’t even notice it working in the background.

Guest Networks

The guest network, or “Guest Zone” system on the router is easy to toggle on. It’s off by default but you’ll find it under Settings -> Wireless -> Guest Zone.

The guest network settings are simple and mirror the general setup of your greater network. If you’ve opted to use the Smart Connect feature for your router then you only have one guest network available (as all the available guest networks are folded into the single smart connection).
If you want multiple guest networks (such as one for your kids and one for your actual guests) then you’ll need to disable the Smart Connect feature. Honestly we’re not big fans of this configuration. You shouldn’t have to disable a really great feature in order to gain access to multiple guest networks. None the less the guest network feature does work as advertised and it easy to set up.

Quality of Service

The Quality of Service (QoS) functionality on the DIR-890L was a real mixed bag for us. On the plus side, it’s incredibly simple to use with an excellent drag and drop interface.
It’s very intuitive to simply grab the item on your network and drag it into a prioritized zone. On the downside, however, there are some hiccups with the system. The most obvious of which is that you can’t prioritize a device unless it is currently on your network. Want to give your iPad priority? It has to be with your and connected.
The second, and more problematic, thing is that the priority system is based exclusively on the device with no ability to prioritize specific traffic types. Let’s say you want to prioritize Skype traffic or streaming video. You can’t prioritize it by the type of traffic only by the device which means you would need to prioritize every device that you run Skype on.
Unfortunately you can’t do that because the way the drag and drop system is set up you get one “Highest” priority, two “High” and eight “Medium” priority slots. In practice the drag and drop system should be great but in application it will leave power users very frustrated.

Attached Storage/File Sharing

The file sharing system works well enough. That’s not a ding on D-Link at all or this particular product, mind you, it’s just a simple expectation of what a router-based file sharing tool entails. We had no problem plugging in a USB 3.0 hard drive and accessing it like a plain old network drive (as well as accessing it with D-Link’s MyDLink software).
It wasn’t as screaming fast as a dedicated network storage computer optimized for the task but it’s unreasonable to expect your router to compete with a commercial NAS. We were able to consistently pull down around 60-65Mbps from the attached storage and that’s more than enough for daily use and even streaming media off the drive.

Quick VPN

The Quick VPN function allows for secure remote access to your home network when you’re away. It’s very simple to setup and requires very little more than turning it on and inputting a password. Most mobile devices like iOS and Android driven phones and tablets support the L2TP/Ipsec protocol the router uses, as do desktop operating systems like Windows and OSX.
It’s important to note that this function is focused on getting youinto your home network security and not linking your network outwards to a remote secure network. That’s a bit of an advanced feature and if it’s something you need you’ll have to shop carefully for a router and/or run DD-WRT to get it. You can read more about the process here.

Performance Benchmarks

We were very pleased with the performance of the DIR-880L. While power users might be ruffled over the lack of granular features in the router control panel there’s little to complain about when it comes to raw power. Despite placement on the ground floor of our test home the router provided consistent and strong coverage throughout the basement, upstairs, attic rooms, and even out into the yard and into the street in front of the house.
On the 2.4Ghz band the DIR-890L performed very similarly to its predecessor the DIR-880L. The average transfer rate on the 2.4GHz band was 108 Mbps which is so close to the previous router’s specs as to be nearly identical. This isn’t surprising given that we tested it in the same location and that there is an upper threshold to how fast you can go on the 2.4GHz band.
The throughput on the 5GHz band was screaming fast in 802.11ac mode and we consistently got around 500-550 Mbps within a distance of a room or two from the router and even in the attic or out in the backyard it was still around 300 Mbps. Downgrading, if you can even use that word given how fast it still was, to 802.11n still offered more-than-fast enough speeds of approximately 200 Mbps throughout the first floor of the test home.
The reality is that once you get into flagship routers, barring any sort of serious design or hardware flaw, the speeds are so fast they become meaningless. The DIR-890L is so fast that neither your local file transfers nor broadband connection can even come close to saturating it. Even on a home network with gigabit Internet and a houseful of guests gaming, streaming, and downloading files you’re just not going to even come close to winding this machine or other machines in its class.

The Good, The Bad, and The Verdict

We don’t just benchmark machines here at HTG we go through the hassle of switching them over for us as primary routers for at least a period of several weeks (and often a month or longer). Now that we’ve lived with the DIR-890L for that period of time, what do we have to say about it?

The Good

  • It looks really stylish. Looking good isn’t a requirement for being a good router but this thing looks really awesome.
  • LEDs are sufficiently bright and provide sufficient information without lighting your whole house or overwhelming you with extra information.
  • The GUI and user experience is fantastic and user friendly.
  • D-Link openly endorses DD-WRT as a robust third party firmware.
  • It’s screaming fast. You’d be incredibly hard pressed to actually push up against the limitations of the router.
  • It’s very stable; other than upgrading the firmware we didn’t reboot the device once during the entire test period.

The Bad

  • No eSATA port. We know, we know. This is a niche feature but this is a super premium router.
  • Non-detachable antenna. While we didn’t find a need to upgrade the antennas in our testing, we always like the possibility of doing so.
  • While the ultra-simplistic GUI is very user friendly it can be far too limiting for a power user.
  • The QoS is a mess. With broadband and this powerful of a router you might not need it in the first place, but it could use a strong update.

The Verdict

You can’t escape the fact that the DIR-890L is expensive nor can you escape the fact that it simply isn’t a router for everyone. It’s not a router for people on a tight budget. It’s not a router for Grandma’s one-device household. You can even argue that without that upgrade to DD-WRT it isn’t a router for hardcore power users. What we can say about the router is this.
It was easy to set up. It’s incredibly powerful and at no point during our testing process were we even able to begin to lag our network despite extended and large file transfers, multiple streaming clients, and other stress tests. It has a wide range and easily covered every story of the test home, the yard, and even into the street and the neighbor’s yard. And, given the string of frustrations we’ve had with routers lately, we can say this above all else: it’s very stable. Other than rebooting it once in the beginning to update the firmware the device ran continuously (and is still running as we write this) off the initial boot. Not a blip, not a hiccup, not a software or hardware reboot needed. That shouldn’t be extraordinary given how important routers are, but we’ve been let down by more than our fair share of routers and firmwares over the last few years.
So the end word on the matter is this: The DIR-890L is an exceptional router for modern device-packed households that, while a bit light on configuration options, is packed with power and as stable as can be. If it’s in your budget and you’re looking for a beastly router with more than enough reach and bandwidth to spare for your bustling household it’s a sure purchase.

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What File System Should I Use for My USB Drive?
It can be tough porting your videos and music to every device you use. How do you know your Mac, Xbox, and Windows Machine can read your files? Read on to find your perfect USB drive solution.
File systems are the sort of thing that many computer users take for granted. But what are they, and what system supports what? It can be confusing, and a serious headache to deal with if you’re unprepared. Read on to see what will work best for you when you have to decide how to format your usb disk.
TL;DR version:
  • If you are sharing a drive between computers and don’t need to use big files, FAT32 works almost everywhere but doesn’t support files bigger than 4GB. This is the default for flash drives since it works everywhere.
  • If you do need to use files bigger than 4GB, exFAT works on Windows, Linux (with FUSE), and OS X. This is probably the best choice for a shared hard drive that will only be plugged into a computer.
  • If you are only adding files from Windows and you need to use big files, NTFS works almost everywhere, although is read-only on OS X and doesn’t work on some media players.

Understanding File System Problems

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File systems are ways of organizing data, with each various file system usually associated with a specific operating system. Since only binary data can be written to hard disks, the file systems are a key part of the translation from physical recordings on a drive to the files read by an OS. Since these file systems are key to the operating system making sense of the data, an OS cannot read data off of a hard drive without support for various file systems, i.e. without the ability to translate from where the data is physically written to the hard disk. When you choose “format” on a disk, you’re basically deciding what devices can and cannot read it or write to it.
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There are myriad numbers of file systems, many of them created for depreciated operating systems. Nowadays, many computer users will have multiple PCs in their home—some running Mac OS, some running Windows, perhaps even some running Linux. Because of this, it’s becoming more and more necessary to have portable disks that can move from OS to OS without issue. But to do that, we have to take a look at major issues that will cause you problems when porting drives from device to device. These are portability and file size limits.

Problem 1: Portability

The three most common file systems are NTFS (the Windows standard), HFS+ (the OS X standard), and FAT32 (an older Windows standard). You might think that modern operating systems would natively support each other’s file system, but they largely do not. Mac OS (even in the current version), will not write to an NTFS formatted hard disk. Windows 7 does not even recognize HFS+ formatted disks and either ignores them or treats them as unformatted.
Many distros of Linux (like Ubuntu) are prepared to deal with this file system problem. Moving files from one file system to another is a routine process for Linux—many modern distros natively support NFTS and HFS+ or can get support with a quick download of free software packages.
In addition to this, your home consoles (Xbox 360, Playstation 3) only provide limited support for certain filesystems, and only provide read access to the USB drives. In order to better understand the best filesystem for your needs, take a look at this helpful chart.
Windows XPWindows 7/8/10/VistaMac OS LeopardMac OS X (10.6.5 and later)Ubuntu LinuxPlaystation 3Xbox 360 / Xbox One
NTFS(Windows)YesYesRead OnlyRead OnlyYesNoNo (Yes for Xbox One)
FAT32(DOS, Windows)YesYesYesYesYesYesYes
exFAT(Windows)YesYesNoYesYes,with ExFat packagesNoNo (Yes for Xbox One)
HFS+(Mac OS)NoSorta (read-only with Bootcamp)YesYesYesNoYes
EXT2, 3, 4 (Linux)NoYes (with third-party software)NoNoYesNoYes
Keep in mind that these are native abilities of the OS to read/write to these file systems. Mac OS and Windows both have downloads that will help them read unsupported formats, but this article is more about what is natively supported, not how to get that support. But if you have a favorite solution for reading NTFS on Mac, or HFS+ on Windows, tell us about it in the comments!
FAT32 has been around for so long that many devices and operating systems support it natively, making it a strong choice for a file system on a spectrum of devices. The major problem with FAT32 is that it limits the size of individual files, as well as the size of volumes. If you have to store, write, and read huge files, FAT32 may not be the clear winner. Let’s take a look at that now.

Problem 2: File Sizes and Limits

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FAT32 was developed many years ago and was based on older FAT filesystems meant for DOS computers. The large disk sizes of today were only theoretical in those days, so it probably seemed ridiculous to the engineers that created FAT32 that anyone would ever need a filesize larger than 4 GB. However, with today’s large filesizes of uncompressed and high-def video, many users are faced with that very challenge.
Today’s more modern file systems have upward limits that seem ridiculous by our modern standards, but one day may seem humdrum and ordinary. When stacked up against the competition, we see very quickly that FAT32 is showing its age.
Individual File Size LimitSingle Volume Size Limit
NTFSGreater than commerciallyavailable drivesHuge (16EB)
FAT32Less than 4GBLess than 8TB
exFATGreater than commerciallyavailable drivesHuge (64 ZB)
HFS+Greater than commercially
available drives
Huge (8 EB)
EXT2, 316GBLarge (32 TB)
EXT41 EB16 TB
Every newer file system handily whips FAT32, allowing for files sometimes ridiculously larger than 4GB. EXT2 or EXT3, which supports 16GB files (up to 2TB files on some systems), has the second smallest individual file size on this list, although EXT4 solves this issue with huge file sizes.The other file systems measure their maximum file sizes in Petabytes and larger, making them many thousands of times larger than FAT32.
The conclusion to draw from this is that FAT32 has its issues, and may be phased out as newer devices begin to support file systems like exFAT, Microsoft’s successor to FAT32. The basic rule of thumb is that FAT32 is the best bet for most users, unless they have file sizes greater than 4GB, in which case, you have to think long and hard about what your specific needs are. Hopefully we’ve laid out enough information to help you make a decision. From here, you can check out a few links to help you to properly format your drives.

Formatting Your Drives

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FAT32: It’s a myth that FAT32 drives are limited to ridiculously small sizes, like 32GB. Depending on the file system and software used to create the volume, you can create very large FAT32 drives, even up to several TB. Here are a few ways to format your drive with FAT32.
  • Fat32format or GUIformat (Windows): Easy tools to make large FAT32 drives on your Windows based system. Recommended for most HTG readers.
  • Disk Utility (Mac): One of the easiest tools to use out of the box. Simply search for “Disk Utility” in your applications folder—it comes preinstalled. Mac OS calls FAT32 the “DOS” format.
  • GParted (Linux and LiveCD): GParted is a open source tool for editing partitions, and comes with FAT32 support out of the box. It is part of most Ubuntu live CDs, and also has its own live CD.
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NTFS or exFAT: While it may one day eclipse FAT, exFAT is not as well supported as it could be, but exFAT does work on Windows, Linux (with packages), and OS X, and it supports large files. NTFS works on Windows, is read-only on OS X, and has support on Linux.
Here’s two ways you can format NTFS or exFAT.
  • Computer Management (Windows 7): Go to your start menu and type “Computer Management” to bring up that tool. From there you can use “Disk Management” to navigate to drives and right click to format them. You should be able to choose between NTFS and exFAT. This can be useful, as uninitialized, unmounted drives appear here, when they don’t appear in “My Computer.”
  • Quick Format (Windows 7): Simply look at all the drives mounted under “My Computer,” then right click and choose “Format.” You should have the choice between NTFS and exFAT.
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HFS+: You won’t likely need HFS+ unless you’re doing a lot of work with Macs. In that case, Mac OS’s Disk Utility will do the trick again. Simply choose “Mac OS Extended” with or without Journaling.
GParted
EXT2, EXT3, EXT4: In addition to offering native support for FAT32 and downloadable support for NTFS and HFS+, GParted will create and manage partitions, and is pretty much the best game in town for creating Linux EXT volumes.

That, in a nutshell, is what you should know about the most common file systems. Think we’ve left anything important out? Feel free to tell us about it in the comments, or tell us about how you use your own USB drives.

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How to Create Bootable USB Drives and SD Cards For Every Operating System
Creating installation media for your operating system of choice used to be simple. Just download an ISO and burn it to CD or DVD. Now we’re using USB drives, and the process is a little different for each operating system.
You can’t just copy files form an ISO disc image directly onto your USB drive. The USB drive’s data partition needs to be made bootable, for one thing. This process will usually wipe your USB drive or SD card.
This article was written a while ago, but we’re updating and republishing it today for Windows 10.

First, Make Sure You’re Using a USB 3.0 Drive


For only $15, it’s a great upgrade
USB 2.0 has been around forever, and everything supports it, but it’s notoriously slow. You’ll be much better off making the upgrade to USB 3.0 since the prices have dropped dramatically, and the speed increases are enormous… you can get 10x the speed.
And speed really matters when you’re making a boot drive.
Editor’s Note: We use this Silicon Power USB 3.0 drive here at How-To Geek, and at $15 for a 32 GB version, it’s well worth the upgrade. You can even get it in sizes up to 128 GB if you want.
Don’t worry about compatibility, these faster drives are fully compatible with an old USB 2.0 system, you just won’t get the speed boosts. And if your desktop computer doesn’t support USB 3.0 you can always upgrade it to add support.

From a Windows 10 or Windows 7 ISO

Use Microsoft’s own Windows USB/DVD download tool to create a bootable drive you can install Windows from. You’ll need a Windows installer ISO file to run this tool. If you don’t have one, you can download Windows 10, 8, or 7 installation media for free — you’ll need a legitimate product key to use them, though.
Provide the ISO file and a USB flash drive and the tool will create a bootable drive.
create-bootable-windows-7-usb-drive

From a Linux ISO

Ubuntu recommends the Universal USB Installer for creating bootable Linux USB drives on Windows. This tool can create bootable disc images for many different Linux distributions. UNetbootin is another popular alternative.
Download the Linux distribution you want to use in .ISO form. Run the tool, select your desired distribution, browse to your downloaded ISO file, and choose the USB drive you want to use. The tool will do the rest.
create-bootable-usb-drive-from-linux-iso
You can use similar tools on Linux. For example, Ubuntu includes a Startup Disk Creator tool for creating bootable Ubuntu USB drives. UNetbootin also runs on Linux, so you can use that too.
ubuntu-startup-disk-creator

From an IMG File

Some operating system projects provide an IMG file instead of an ISO file. An IMG file is a raw disk image that needs to be written directly to a USB drive.
Use Win32 Disk Imager to write an IMG file to a USB drive or SD card. Provide a downloaded IMG file and the tool will write it directly to your drive, erasing its current contents. You can also use this tool to create IMG files from USB drives and SD cards.
write-img-file-to-usb-drive-or-sd-card-on-windows
Linux users can use the dd command to directly write an IMG file’s contents to a removable media device. Insert the removable media and run the following command on Ubuntu:
sudo dd if=/home/user/file.img of=/dev/sdX bs=1M
Replace /home/user/file.img with the path to the IMG file on your file system and /dev/sdX with the path to your USB or SD card device. Be very careful to specify the correct disk path here — if you specify the path to your system drive instead, you’ll write the contents of the image to your operating system drive and corrupt it
write-img-file-to-usb-drive-with-dd-on-linux

From a Windows 8 or 8.1 Product Key

Note that Windows 8 and Windows 8.1 have different product keys, so you’ll need to jump through hoops if you want to install Windows 8.1 with a Windows 8 product key. You may just want to install Windows 8 and upgrade to Windows 8.1 from within Windows 8 — that’s Microsoft’s officially supported method.If you have a Windows 8 or Windows 8.1 product key, you can download installation media directly from Microsoft and create a USB drive all at once. Download the appropriate tool from the Upgrade Windows with only a product key page. Run it, provide your product key, and tell the wizard you want to create a bootable USB drive.
create-windows-8-usb-flash-drive-or-iso-file

From a Windows 8, 8.1, or 10 ISO

If you already have a Windows 8, 8.1, or 10 ISO file and you want to create installation media without re-downloading anything, you can actually use the Windows 7 USB/DVD download tool for this.
Just provide the Windows ISO file when prompted. The tool will happily create Windows installation media if you provide the appropriate ISO file.
create-bootable-usb-drive-from-windows-8-or-8.1-iso-file

With DOS

Rufus uses Free-DOS, an open-source implementation of DOS that should run whatever DOS program you need to use.If you need to boot into DOS to use a low-level firmware upgrade, BIOS update, or system tool that still requires DOS for some reason, you can use the Rufus tool to create a bootable DOS USB drive.
create-bootable-dos-usb-drive

From Mac OS X Installation Files

The Mac OS X drive can be used to install OS X on other Macs or upgrade them to the latest version without any long downloads.You can create a bootable drive with Mac OS X on it by downloading the latest version of OS X from the Mac App Store. Use Apple’s included “createinstallmedia” tool in a terminal or by run the third-party DiskMaker X tool.
create-mac-os-x-installation-usb-drive-with-diskmaker-x

From a Windows ISO for Mac

You can use this drive to install Windows on multiple Macs, but don’t use it to install Windows on non-Apple PCs.If you plan on installing Windows on a Mac via Boot Camp, don’t bother creating a bootable USB drive in the usual way. Use your Mac’s Boot Camp tool to start setting things up and it will walk you through creating a bootable Windows installation drive with Apple’s drivers and Boot Camp utilities integrated.
create-bootable-usb-drive-for-windows-on-mac

Some of these tools overlap — for example, Rufus can also be used to create bootable drives from Linux ISOs, IMG files, and even Windows ISO Files. We suggested the most popular, widely recommended tools for each task here.

Unknown Sunday, December 20, 2015